July 31, 2007

Tastes like beef

Ostrich tapa

Ostrich tapa

Cagayan de Oro, being the white water rafting capital of the Philippines, has a lot to offer the thrill seeker and adventure traveler. Aside from shooting the rapids, ziplining, braving suspension bridges, horseback riding and caving which we did, visitors to this city can also enjoy other activities such as rapeling, spelunking, tubing (also known as Pinoy rafting), biking and nature trekking or swimming under waterfalls.

But another unique feature of CDO and one that is slightly less known is its status as the country’s premier source of ostrich eggs and ostrich meat. The Limketkai family pioneered ostrich farming in the country, vacuum-packing their meats and supplying these to selected supermarkets and restaurants around the country, including Kagayanon, a popular restaurant located at the Limketkai center.

Ostrich curry

Ostrich curry

Although we were far from being hungry after our late lunch of Sunburst fried chicken, we trooped to Kagayanon for some of this prized meat. We ignored all the other delicious-sounding local delicacies and ordered the ostrich salpicao, ostrich tapa and ostrich curry with cashew nuts, along with some bicol express.

And no, this flightless giant of a bird does not taste like chicken. Ostrich meat pretty much tastes just like beef and probably only the most experienced diner could distinguish between the two. But though it shares a similarity in texture and appearance with beef, ostrich meant enjoys a reputation of being the healthier option due to it’s lower cholesterol content and higher nutritional value. Not that any of that really mattered to me at the moment, I was busy enjoying all of it especially the tapa which turned out to be my favorite of the three. Everything was just so tender!

Ostrich Salpicao

Ostrich salpicao


Bicol express

Bicol express

Kagayanon Restaurant
Limketkai Center, Cagayan de Oro City
Tel. +63 (08822)729292

July 28, 2007

Getting my adrenalin fix in Cagayan

Our jeep

Yay I finally did it! I finally went white water rafting! I've been wanting to do this for way too long. The last two times I was in Cagayan de Oro there was no time for any adventure; the first time we we were just passing through on our way to Camiguin island, and the second time was for work so no time there. But yes, finally, there I was feeling brave and snug in a blue lifevest, a yellow helmet strapped under my chin and yielding my oar (or "padol", god I love their accent ) like a knight yields his lance before a joust. Yeah! Bring it on!

So after a quick briefing on safety procedures from Jojo, our guide, the six of us secured our positions on the edges of the raft (see grey rubber strip on the boat below). Jojo and one of his crew positioned themselves behind us, bringing up the rear. Here we go! I felt tiny people doing somersaults and cartwheels inside me. Soon the circus had come to town in my tummy. I love the circus.

Our raft

After a few minutes of easy rowing, we picked up the sound of gushing water, like that of a tall waterfall. As it grew louder, I could make out the patch of white water, a stark contrast from the jade green river water, as it glistened in the sun and foamed over big, menacing rocks. Those rocks had the power to capsize us. "Lock your feet!", Jojo shouted, and we obediently tucked our feet under those hotdog-looking things in the middle of the raft and braced ourselves, awaiting the next command. "Now hard padol! " and we began to paddle fast and hard. Or attempted to. The first splash of water shocked me out of my senses. It was freezing! My thought process went something like this:

"Omigod omigod, this is it!......Whheeee! ......ooohhh fun....hahahaha...heehee...gasp! what the?! it's cold !!...... aaaaaahhhhhh......oh wait, I gotta paddle...... shoot I keep bumping Michelle's oar.....wheeeeeeeee.....gulp!....think I swallowed water......ack big rock!......phew......I'm...aaaahhhhhhhhh.....I'm soaked!.......brrrrr.....ouch this strap is cutting into my thigh.......wheeee.....hahahahaha.....no one's rowing.....hey....omigod that was FUN!.....huff....huff...."

And that was pretty much how it went for the rest of the 19 rapids. Screams and fits of laughter. In between rapids, we conserved our energy and drifted with the current, enjoying the scenery on either side of us. The river serves as a boundary between Cagayan de Oro to our left and Bukidnon to our right - each side equally rich in natural beauty and wild life such as wild carabaos and wild goats (wild because if you touch them their owners will go wild, says our guide the frustrated comedian) and beautiful wild orchids - whose fragrance filled the air around us wherever they were present.

Lunch by the river

We travelled 16 kilometers downstream on the Cagayan river and traversed about 20 rapids in all, degrees of rough water ranging from category 2 to 4+, with 5 being the strongest. The entire experience lasted about three hours and included a stopover for packed lunch. Tupperwares of grilled fish, shrimp, pork chops, rice, water and Cokes were brought to us from the jeep that followed us to their shack on the riverbank and which would later pick us up at the disembarkation point.

Refueled and pumped up with renewed energy, we forged on to conquer more white water. We were getting good at this, even helping our guides steer the boat sometimes by actually using our oars. There was one particular hairy turn that he warned us about and for which he needed our help if we were to get through it in one piece. To avoid the huge boulder in the middle of the river, we had to quickly maneouver the raft to the left of the rock and under an overhanging cliff. We had to duck low to avoid getting our heads banged up and then immediately veer right so we don't slam into the wall in the process. It was tricky and the most challenging of all, but with cooperation and determination we emerged victorious.

After each rough patch, Jojo would shout "high five!", our cue to raise our paddles above us in a group high-five slap, and echo "high five!" as we did so. This was one of his instructions during the briefing and I wondered what it had to with rafting safety, even thinking it was a little cheesy but funny. Never did we high-five each other with such pride and sense of triumph after that last one. Even nearly knocking some teammates overboard in the process. Ok, I exaggerate, but it was such a great feeling! After that one, the rest kinda paled in comparison and I secretly wished they all elicited that same thrill and sense of danger that gets my adrenalin pumping.

Boy from the caves

At the disembarkation point, our jeep was waiting for us. While some rinsed themselves in the makeshift showers, the crew packed up the gear and mounted the raft back up on the roof of the jeep. We proceeded to Macahambus Cave, a very dark and small cave which you enter from the side of the road. It is a "thru" cave that leads to an exit above the river (below). The handsome little man in the photo above was our guide who assisted us in crawling through the tunnels without bumping our heads. According to the plaque at the mouth of the cave, it "served as the hide-out of Kagayanon soldiers and their families during the Battle of Macahambus Hill which marked the victory of the Filipinos against the Americans in the Phil-American war in this nation in 1900."

Looking out into the river from the cave

Next on the agenda was the canopy walk (or sky bridge) and zipline at the Macahambus Adventure Park . The kick-off point of the canopy walk is street level above the Macahambus Gorge, so there was no hiking involved (read here why this mattered to me). Once again the crew took great pains in making sure we were well-equipped with the safety gear: a harness and helmet. This canopy walk, though not really less thrilling, made me feel safer compared to my Kota Kinabalu experience because we were harnessed to a cable above us and the bridge felt less wobbly. There is something about walking amidst tree tops with nothing between thw wooden planks under you and the earth but 150 meters of air that is so amazing.

IMG_9263


Canopy Walk

The highlight of my day was the zipline,(also known as flying fox or death slide, yipes), which I had never done before and the mere thought of which made me nauseous with excitement. Upon reaching the third platform, we ascended a tower to another platform where the zipline cable starts at a steeper slope. All the better to propel you at the speed of light to your death err... to the other side, my dear.

We let our friend Joey, who incidentally is the most fearful of heights among us, go first so he could take pictures of us as we land, because we're thoughtful and selfless like that. The poor guy had barely even recovered from the canopy walk and there he was, sweating bullets while his harness was being fastened to a pulley on the cable. The guide held him back, shouted "Go?!" and when this was echoed from the other end he gave Joey a light shove the way you would a kid on a swing, and let gravity do it's job. Joey's screams and nervous laughter did nothing to calm our nerves and 4 people later it was my turn.

I said a quick prayer to the heavens and pleaded, "please Lord let this cord stay strong and carry me through to safety", because I learned from The Secret that this is the proper way to think and not "Please Lord, don't let this cable snap so I don't plunge into the gorge and risk getting my limbs torn off and my neck snapped and spine crushed." On the second "go" I was off, zipping and flying through the jungle and it was awesome! It was freakin' awesome! Until I saw my landing pad.

There was no landing pad. Just a concrete slab by the stone shack where we started from and about three guys positioned to catch me. I felt no fear until this point. I'm gonna slam into that wall like a fly on a windshield, I was sure of it! To make things worse, it seemed I was picking up speed! Then I gripped the cord tight and screamed, my life was in their hands now. Aaahh! They caught me. Barely.

I will not attempt to describe the feeling of ziplining to any of you, I want you to experience it yourself. But if you want an idea, watch this video Joey took while he was zipping along and listen carefully as he is robbed of his masculinity. ;)

Note: The entire package cost P1,400 (about $30) which includes: hotel pick-up and drop-off, 20 rapids (other companies only do about 15 or 16), the cave, canopy walk, zipline and packed lunch.

Rapids

Golden Friendship Whitewater Rafting
Contact: Vittal @ (088) 858-9007 or 0919-4924488

Ridgeview Chalet
Ridgeview Chalets, Xavier Estates
Airport Rd., Cagayan de Oro City
Tel. Nos. (088) 858-7929/30 & 858-8933/37

July 24, 2007

Hey girl, you rock!

Yes, folks, I rock! And I rock, two times!! Well, at least according to two of my favorite blogger friends: Tracy of Alaskan Adventures and Cookie of ScroochChronicles. :) Thank you so much, you two, I am extremely flattered yet humbled and touched that you think so. I happen to think you both rock too!

If you haven't already had the pleasure of meeting these two lovely women, let me give you a little introduction. Tracy is a fellow travel junkie who shares my love for adventure and the occasional adrenalin fix. I've been reading her blog since I first discovered blogs. She has a flair for writing about her life on the road that makes you feel like you were right there with her, or at the very least makes you want to be right there with her. Don't let her tag line deceive you, she's anything but ordinary. She is a very independent woman whose courage and determination I admire greatly.

Cookie is a loving mama to two adorable and lucky little girls. She writes mostly heartwarming stories that reflect the joys of motherhood. Her love and devotion to her family is truly remarkable. Cookie's blog is all that and more, like Forest's box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get. That's one of the things I like most about her. She's a multi-faceted woman and it shows in her posts.

So now it's my turn to spread the love. As usual, this is going to be tough, very very tough. Since I started reading blogs about two years ago, I've 'met' so many strong, intelligent, funny and incredible women who have so generously shared their lives with whoever cared to listen. I really think they all rock. And as much as I'd like to give this award to all of them, I don't think it's supposed to work that way. So I'll pick seven, just because I like that number.

Joey of 80 Breakfasts - If haven't already met Joey, you need to head on over to her blog right now. There you'll find a lady of immense talent. The talent to create enticing dishes, the talent to capture some of the most beautiful food shots, the talent to entertain you with her colorful stories, and most importantly to me, the talent to remain a trusted and loyal friend for life. Yes, this girl truly rocks my world!

Rowena of Rubber Slippers in Italy -Rowena is an island girl living in the Lombardy region of Italy. Can you imagine how wonderful that must be? She weaves stories of food and travel together so beautifully that I love to live vicariously through her and her cute-as-a-button pup Maddie. Rowena is a genuinely warm person who I hope to meet someday.

Bee of Rasa Malaysia - I discovered Bee's site before a trip to Kota Kinabalu earlier this year. I was researching Malaysian cuisine and serendipitously stumbled upon this gem. Her gorgeous photography and mouth-watering recipes lured me in and made me a willing captive. After my trip and hours spent reading her blog, I developed a better understanding and deep appreciation of Malaysian cuisine of which I am grateful. This Bee rocks the blog hive!

Mae of Rice and Noodles - Mae constantly blows my mind with her photographs and writing. Her blog is one of the classiest in the blogosphere and it's always such a delight to visit. You just know she's the type of woman who can accomplish anything she puts her mind to. She's a creative genius and her talent extends beyond the kitchen. Check out her beautiful photography here.

Wysgal of Rants & Raves - Wysgal is an apt nickname for her, for she's wise beyond her years. And her blog is a wonderful resource for all things notable - be they restaurant reviews, books, articles, travel destinations and music. She's about to embark on an exciting two year journey at Wharton, yup, this lady is definitely going places and I'm eager to read all about it!

Mila of Watergirl - Mila rocks because she's an intelligent and sensitive woman and a very thoughtful and generous friend. What initially brought us together was a shared passion for football (or soccer to some of you), but what sustained our friendship was a most basic formula of great conversation, comfortable company and a love of good food.

Shalimar of Wanderlust Sha - It's funny how I first discovered Shalimar. I was toying with the idea of naming my own blog Wanderlust (in fact I do have a registered blog with 1derlust in the addy, and was supposed to name it the Wanderings of a gypsy soul) but didn't want to 'steal it' from anyone who was already using it. So I did an extensive search and found Sha. The first thing that caught my attention was that she was Filipina too and that she lived in Greece and travelled often. I knew at that instant I was in for a wonderful journey. Shalimar is a rockin woman with a rockin job that has her travelling to the most beautiful ports and discovering the most wonderful food along the way. She makes me wish I could trade lives with her even for a day.

Keep on rockin' ladies! And feel free to spread the love... :)

July 14, 2007

Black pepper crabs

black pepper crab


In our village, there are many industrious folk who roam the streets selling a wide range of food and services. They are recognized by the distinct sounds they produce as they walk past your home. There's the unmistakable bell of my favorite 'dirty' ice cream man pushing his colorful cart through our streets whom I've been buying cones of ube and keso (cheese) ice cream from since I was five; the cring-cring of the bicycle bell by the man whose bicycle is fitted with a circular blade to sharpen your knives and scissors and booming voice coming from the man bearing rice cakes such as puto and cuchinta on either end of a pole he carries on his shoulder, to name a few.

Of all these street hawkers, my favorite was always the taho guy. For as long as I can remember, his call would propel me into a frenzy that involved the panicked search of coins and then a mad dash to the front door with an empty glass in my hand. His plastic cups were too small for me. From experience, he knew to linger slightly outside our home especially during the summer months when my siblings and I were home most days. He also knew to add more syrup and sago in mine. How I loved that warm afternoon treat!

Yesterday though, our taho guy came by with crabs. Yup, live fresh crabs struggling to crawl out of a pail right there on our doorstep. My mom couldn't resist and bought 2 kilos to try. She asked me this morning what I wanted to do with them. Normally we have our crabs one of three ways: steamed and served with lemon and/or vinegar, cooked in coconut milk or made into our favorite chili crabs. I wanted something different so I decided on black pepper crabs.

My mom steamed the crabs while I prepared the paste. When the crabs were cooked and quartered, I added them into the paste that was already simmering in the wok. The pungent peppery smell filled the air as I allowed the pieces to absorb the flavors into it's crevices for another five minutes.

At the table and armed with our nutcrackers, we proceeded to attack. With each crack of the pepper-encrusted legs, juices squirted out and onto our plates if we were careful. The crabs were so fresh and meaty! In my eagerness to scoop out the flesh, my first crack resulted in my dad's arm and shirt dripping with crab juice. Ack! Heehee. It was a fun, wonderfully messy and delicious lunch. We ate with our hands and we licked our fingers clean, smacking up all the flavor.

I wonder what other treasures we can look forward to from our local taho guy. More of these crabs would be great too!

Black Pepper Crab
taken from Cradle of Flavor by James Oseland

4 tbsp black peppercorns
8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 pc fresh turmeric, peeled & chopped or 2 tsp ground turmeric
1 pc fresh ginger, abt 3 inches long, peeled and thinly sliced
3/4 tsp kosher salt
3 tbsp peanut oil
3/4 cup water
2 kg steamed king crab, quartered

Place the peppercorns in a food processor and pulse until coarsely ground, about 30 seconds. Add the garlic, turmeric, and ginger and pulse until you have a relatively smooth paste. If the paste doesnt puree properly, you may add 1 or 2 tbsp water, periodically turning the processor off and scraping the sides down towards the blade.

Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. You can also user a Dutch oven or skillet. When the oil is ready, add the black pepper paste and saute, stirring as needed to prevent scorching, about 5 minutes.

Add the water and crab pieces and raise the heat to medium high. Stir-fry the crab pieces, stirring them constantly to combine them with the flavoring paste for about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a serving dish and serve immediately. We served this with steamed rice and ripe pineapples.

This is another Black Pepper Crab recipe I'd like to try someday.

July 11, 2007

Tales of a Food Whisperer

I 'borrowed' that name from Socky, which was apparently coined by Adobo Magazine. There was no more perfect term for her, I think.

The woman I speak of is none other than Lydia Go. Tita Lyds, as she is fondly called, is a pioneer and master in the art of food styling and food photography who revolutionized the craft in the Philippines. She was legendary in the advertising industry, the woman behind local and international award-winning food ads which made her the most sought-after and highest-paid food stylist in the country.

Though I had never met her previously, a couple of my fellow food-loving friends in the advertising industry had the good fortunate of working with her. It was Socky who organized the dinner which was held in Tita Lyds home studio. We were told not to expect plated styling which was totally fine with us. It was her cooking we were after. I hurled my diet to the backseat, I wouldn't have been able to forgive myself if I passed up such a rare event. And oh was it worth it!

IMG_89491

sinigang na lechon

There were three spreads. A long buffet table which held the bulk of the food which included: pako (fiddlehead fern) salad with a red egg & tomato dressing, ginataang taong (eggplant cooked in coconut milk), adobong pusit (squid cooked in it's own ink) paired with kesong puti (white cheese) and sundried tomatoes, burong mangga (pickled green mango)roast beef cooked "in a block of butter", alupihan dagat (mantis shrimp according to our resident alupihan dagat expert, Joey, heehee), adobong talaba (oysters) and the pièce de résistance : sinigang na lechon (roast pig cooked in a tamarind broth), which I swear was phenomenal! On the main dining table, steamed jumbo shrimps, ukoy (crunchy shrimp fritters), and fried vegetable spring rolls took center stage.

The dessert buffet was set-up against the other wall. This is where all my will-power to resist sugar went kaput. Flirtatiously calling out to me was a platter of fried suman (steamed rice cake) and chocolate fondue which I first read about in this post of Socky. Flanking it were equally flirtatious native desserts crunchy fried kamote (sweet potato) sticks with sesame seeds, suman sa latik, and the absolutely sinful chocolate and cream cheese log that I could not get enough of.

IMG_89391

Not only is Tita Lydia great stylist and cook, she's one animated story-teller. She regaled us with hilarious tales about her work that had us in stitches. Most of it involved the crazy and near-impossible things she had to resort to meet the client's expectations and demands. It is no wonder brands break the bank for this woman. She does whatever it takes to get the job done.

Even if it means going house to house in typhoon-stricken Tagaytay to look for that rare colored passion fruit the client wants in his ad and eventually buying the tree off the backyard of someone's home. Or having to mount her oven on a pig cart so the talent being filmed inside the moving car was supplied with a constant stream of piping hot pizza straight from the oven, for that perfect mozzarella-stretch shot each time. Or buying an entire poultry farm to get the perfectly proportioned chicken as per the client's request. Oh but there is lots where this came from. It's best though to hear it straight from the horse's mouth, she tells great stories!

It was Tita Lydia's mother who made sure that all the girls in the family knew how to cook (and cook well!) at the tender age of 10, she tells me. Her mom was a staunch believer that it would ensure a lasting marriage. Her passion for food inevitably blossomed into an astounding career in food styling, further enhanced by an experience in food lighting and photography thanks to her late husband, photographer Eddie Go.

Thank you,Tita Lydia for sharing your passion with us (you'll surely be hearing from me come December! ;) ) and thanks Socky for arranging the dinner. :)

IMG_89821

My shameless dessert plate
clockwise from top right: minatamis na saba, suman with latik,
fried suman dipped in chocolate, chocolate and cream cheese log

Read more about Lydia Go and our fabulous dinner here.