Mexico: Centro Historico & the murals

After our lunch at the Casa de los Azulejos, we walked down the cobbled streets lined with hotels and shops to the historic center of Mexico where the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan once stood on an island in Lake Texcoco before Hernan Cortes and his men razed it to the ground. Legend has it that when the Aztecs first arrived here they were advised by their tribal god Huitzilopochtli (phew, had to look that up to make sure I spelled it right) to pitch their tents where they saw an eagle perched on a cactus holding a snake in its mouth. The omen was seen seen here on what was once an island in the middle of a lake. They named the island, Tenochtitlan, which means 'place of the prickly pear cactus'.

When we reached the Zocalo, the main square which is also known as the Plaza de la Constitucion, I stopped in my tracks to take it all in. The Zocalo, marked by a giant flag flying proudly from its center and framed by massive colonial structures in varying architectural styles in all sides, made me feel so small. In an online news magazine, I saw a picture of the Zocalo filled with protestors taken just weeks before. This is not unusual, as the Zocalo is the venue for many protests, traditional rituals and ceremonies, national festivities and concerts bringing together people from all walks of life but who march to the same drumbeat.

Catedral Metropolitana

On this day, however, it was the picture of peace. The sun-drenched square was covered in tents under which a grand booksale was being held. Tourists mingling with locals as they browsed through the selections, all penned in the local language. The baroque and neoclassical façade of the Catedral Metropolitana looms overhead, a stark reminder of its honor as the first and largest Catholic church in the Americas.

Another prominent building beside the Zocalo is the Palacio Nacional. This renaissance building stands on the site of Moctezuma’s palace which became the residence of Hernan Cortes after his conquest of Mexico. The building, which is reminiscent of the Palacio Real in Madrid, features the amazing murals of Diego Rivera, including his grand mural by the staircase which depict his views of the country’s turbulent political history.

From Conquest to 1930, Central Arch Detail, 1929-1935

Epic of the Mexican People - Mexico Today and Tomorrow, 1934-35
Can you spot Frida Kahlo?

Totonac Civilization, 1950

The courtyard of the Palacio Nacional

The Templo Mayor built by the Aztecs in the 14th and 15th centuries is now a massive archaeological site beside the cathedral. Unfortunately it was already closed when I got there so I missed seeing the many levels of excavation as well as the museum inside.

Not too far from the Zocalo, is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, arguably the most beautiful building in the Historic Center. The exterior of the building is clad in Italian marble and its cupolas are covered in tiles. The walls of the second and third floors are covered in murals by Rufino Tamayo, David Alfaro Siqueiros and Jose Clemente Orozco.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Centro Historico is the heart of Mexico which pulsates with life every minute of the day, almost threatening its visitor with sensory overload. The smell of steaming tamales permeates the air mingling with the smell of exhaust from the traffic. The sweet smell of coffee brewing form a nearby café. The sound of senoritas chattering as they peddle their wares on the sidewalk, pierced by the occasional burst of laughter or squeal from children playing nearby. A cumbia or marimba beat emanating from someone’s portable radio. The taste of grilled corn on the cob slathered with mayonnaise, chili, salt and cheese or a torta stuffed with meat, avocado, cheese, sour cream, tomato and jalapeno. Little boys playing their accordion for some change, taxis whizzing past in a green and white blur, Aztec ruins blending with churrigueresque architecture. We have barely scratched the surface of this wondrous city that has seen so much.

Street food vendors with the Palacio Nacional in the background

Up Next: Basilica de Guadalupe & Teotihuacan